Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Spring 2018

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Spring 2018

Having wound down her ready-to-wear line a few seasons ago to focus on “new couture” and accessories, conquering the frontiers of sartorial expression without sliding into sci-fi costume territory has been a delicate balancing act for Iris van Herpen.

This season, presenting a serene, more wearable collection, she pulled it off.

Despite the labor-intensive nature of the clothes — albeit often involving machines, with the opening Foliage dress requiring 260 hours of 3-D printing and endless other high-tech processes — there was an immateriality to the collection.

#SuzyCouture: Nature Knows Best

Schiaparelli and Iris van Herpen both offer couture looks embedded in the good earth

Fashion never falls far from the tree of life. And with climate change not just an abstract concept, but present in Paris as a diluvian downpour of non-stop rain, is it surprising that nature should be the focus for the opening haute couture shows?

At Schiaparelli, the “Pagan” collection that the original designer presented in 1937 was the seedbed for the current Design Director, Bertrand Guyon, who cited as references, “a pagan goddess, summer, nights, dream mythology – and nature”.

Iris van Herpen, however, had just two words – “Ludi Naturae” or “Games of Nature” – to sum up her collection, fusing “the artificial and the organic”.

Comments are closed.